The first step to professional looking results is taking the time for prep work. Not the most fun part of the process, but critical for good results. Fill nail holes, knots, and defects with wood filler. If you are painting your project, smoothing a small bead of paintable caulk in the seams of intersecting pieces can hide small imperfections and take you finish up a notch.
2. Base Coat
If you are going to spend the time, money, and energy to paint a piece of furniture, you want it to last. There are a few products out there (ie: chalk-based paint) that advertise “no-primer needed”. In many cases that’s probably true, however, there are several situations where a good quality primer is still needed. I like to ere on the side of caution and almost always spray a coat of primer before I paint.
Knot holes and dark or very red stained wood are notorious for tannin stains bleeding though multiple layers of paint and finish. I’ve tried every kind of primer known to man and the ONLY product I’ve found to stop tannin stains dead in their tracks is shellac. It’s also a “must have” when spraying paint or finish onto MDF. Shellac is a pretty crazy stuff. If you’re curious where it comes from, you can read my post I wrote about shellac.
3. Adjust Your Spray Pattern and Pressure
. I spray everything through it (paint, lacquer, shellac, etc.)
4. Protect Your Project From Wind and Debris
from HomeRight lately. If I’m really worried about debris blowing into my finish, I’ll turn the shelter with the door facing my block fence and almost nothing gets in. The white walls are pretty fabulous too. During the day the fabric works like a light diffuser and actually reflects bright, clear lighting, helping me see all sides of my project.
5. Sand, Sand, Sand
Finally, the most crucial step in achieving a beautiful, long lasting finish is proper sanding. Sand before you fill holes. Sand after you fill holes. Sand before you prime. Sand after you prime. Sand between each coat of paint or finish. Sand, sand, sand.
Start with a low grit, and step your way higher. For a painted surface, I recommend working your way up to a 220 grit, and with a clear finish, I usually end up with at least a 320 or 400 grit. Put down the electric sander! For shaping and smoothing I’ll use a power sander, but I always hand sand between coats of paint or finish.
I know, sanding sucks, but it makes the world of difference. To tell the truth, I used to absolutely hate sanding, but I’ve learned to almost enjoy it. It can be relaxing and kinda cathartic. I can see the difference it makes when I take my time and work my way up through the grits. In my experience, sanding is the best way to really get that “professional” look.
These are great tips. That tent thing is sweet.
I'm curious, do you recall what the specs were on your air compressor that you used for the Harbor Freight gun? I bought the same gun a few years ago on a whim and I'm not sure if my weenie little compressor is up for the job. I only used the sprayer once (with ugly results) and never tried to figure out whether the culprit was my total lack of skill or the compressor, or maybe a both.
If you are going to be spraying a lot, CFM is more important than tank size. The higher the better. I would suggest finding a compressor with a CFM of at least 5 at 40psi. I know Harbor Freight sells a couple smaller ones with fairly high CFM (usually the black ones). If you don't have enough air, or if your air isn't flowing evenly, you can definitely end up with blotchy paint! Maybe try a larger compressor and try again. Have fun!
Excellent tips, especially about the sanding. no fun but a fantastic finish takes time!
Kim@reposhture
There are so many projects I could use this for, but I think the first one would be the chair rail for my daughter’s bedroom.
I usually ignore the tip 4: Protect my Project From Wind and Debris. Reading your post I realized the importance of this